Meet the Greatest Michelin-Starred Chef You've Never Heard Of

  Paco Pérez is sitting in his car outside his restaurant and home in Llançà, a sleepy, whitewashed town wrapped around a yawning bay on the Costa Brava. He is talking about how he likes to cook, swinging his arms around like a frustrated orchestra conductor and raising his voice as he reaches the crescendo of each of his points. “What the hell is unique food, anyway? I’m not sure it exists; everything comes from somewhere, is mixed with a particular