How a New Generation of Restaurants Are Changing the Way We Eat

This summer I made a pilgrimage to Paul Bocuse’s namesake restaurant in Lyon. Chef is now getting on in years, and I wanted to eat at his temple before he no longer cast a shadow over the kitchen. Dinner was everything you might expect from a restaurant that has held three Michelin stars for 55 years: the plush, over-the-top décor of the dining room; the paintings gifted to the chef over a lifetime of work; the reverent hush of the diners; the trolleys laden with cheeses and